Wednesday 30 April 2008

I have to be very quick

Hello all from fair Trujillo, the tumbling and crumbling colonial city surrounded by many archaeology sites of national importance. I have had a wonderful few days here enjoying and getting covered, it is very dusty, in the heritage of the Moche valley.

What picture can I paint for you of this area well let me see, it took 9 hours to reach by bus, the landscape changing across the whole journey, deserts abutting the sea, cultivated valleys of maize, mountains that looked as though entirely constructed of small pebbles, people lining the dusty road nothing more than dirt tracks, sitting waiting and watching under the dappled shade provided by the scant trees or the punctured corregated iron resting upon mud bricks still produced in the traditional way. Trujillo is hailed as competeing for the title of second city in Peru, all this must be based on is the facades of the buildings that surround the Plaza in the centre. The streets that flank the plaza of shiny marble and old men proped on one arm dozing in the sun are tumbling away. Layers of paint curl in the sun, door ways bricked up, wood worm devours the thick and ornately carved doors. The old colonial buildings which still stand house not the rich as they were intended for but instead themselves been colonised by groups of people of varying trades. I sat in a once grand courtyard sipping a cold beer, the collums towering over head, the cracked roof tiles scattered on the tiled floor. In the corner a man eyed me suscpiciously as he moved his foot rhymically on his ancient sewing machine peddle. the courtyard also housed a small bar, a betting shop and a photocopying machine all squished together and seperated by hardboard.

The weather is hotter here and the dust swirls. There is constant noise and activity the street vendors moving shouting peddling their heavy loads along the pot holed streets.

I really must go as I have to eat, all I do here is eat the fruit on the market stalls is wonderful and there is one you can eat like a lolly pop and suck out the contents.

I hope everyone is well I miss you all

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Friday 25 April 2008

flickering light

This time it is the light above my head and not the screen, I know I know I am full of excuses! I am also full of water, I had an afternoon of surfing when I was meant to be packing and organising the trip which I am going on tomorrow opps!

I got up for 6am surfing this morning and waited and waited for Manuel only to discover later this afternoon that none of my messages got through to him as I had run out of credit! At least that explains the spanish message that kept flashing on the mobile´s screen. So after forty minutes looking like a wally this morning whilst people jogged past me and I tried to make gestures as if I was stretching in preperation for sport to feel less conspicous, I headed home and off to work. My last day at the Huaca which is a shame I have really enjoyed my time there. After work it was lunch and then down to meet Robert my alternative surfing teacher. The only problem with Robert is that he speaks no English at all so there we were floating in the middle of the ocean both frantically waving our hands about as he tried to explain various techniques to me.

I havent written for a few days what updates can I bring you? Well yesterday was spent with Chris, a friend from University days, who just happened to be passing through lima on his way home after 6 months on the road. We went out on Wednesday evening and then on Thursday he came to visit me at work. I tried to give him an interesting and in depth tour but you will have to ask him how I did. After that we grabbed some lunch eating far too much cheese and ham in the park. Then it was down to the beach to show him where I have spent alot of my time, we got there just in time for sunset. After a long week we both decided a quiet night would be nice so we stayed at the apartment and watched a bit of tv.

Tonight the plan is party party before Chris has to leave for the airport at 3.30am!! So we shall start early. The group should be big this evening as all of the surfer guys are coming to collect me at 8pm and promise that they can not only surf but also bust some mean groves!!!

Tomorrow I head up north so I may not write for a few days I have a busy time ahead and am looking forward to the long bus journey to catch some much needed shut eye.

well sorry for the borring nature of this entry as I said a combination of the flashing light and the water. Hope all is well with everyone love you all xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Tuesday 22 April 2008

flickering screen

Above is my excuse for if this blog is incohernet or in anyway deficient, the screen is awful and making me feel quite trippy!

How is everyone? Well I hope and enjoying everything that you are up to.

I have had another long day with a 5.30 am start down at the beach. Manuel my teacher was unimpressed when I showed him my surfing injuries, I thought that they may give me some cache or beach cred but he laughed, showed me huge white scars on both his legs and told me that he had also on one occasion broken his nose. These he quipped were what showed he was a real surfer as he pushed me into the sea. Wow this is just the kind of friendly encouragement that you need to hear.

I am going out for drinks tonight which I am beginning to think may be a bad decision as my company may be less than thrilling for the other party as I discuss in detail the dvd that Manuel made me watch all afternoon. A dvd which he kept pausing and rewinding to show me again and again how to stand up properly on the board. I tried to sound very enthusiastic about watching a film in Spaninsh about the different types of waves on the Peruvian coast but I think even with my incredible and undeniable talent he was less than convinced and sent me home to "practice practice" which I am yet to begin.

His flat shared with several other surfers was how I would imagine stepping back into the seventies would be. All the walls covered in posters of surfers, of waves or of Bob Marley. A certain scent hanging in the air and surf boards propped up against the walls.

I left this surreal shrine to regge and the sea and wondered the streets of Miraflores. Yesterday I ventured into the centre for the first time. I had heard horror stories of the violence and the dirt. So I went with mixed feelings but felt that I should give it a chance. It was absolutely beautiful just the type of decaying grandeur that I most enjoy, colonial buildings covered in layers of flaking paint, old men sitting in dark lower rooms with barred mending shoes or dozzing in the afternoon. The two main sqaures a scene of activity the roads shared by huge old American cars, the Lima VW beetles, horses and tanks protecting the president. I visited the catacombs and the monastry which was beautiful, before heading back to Miraflores to watch the sunset from lovers park.

I had originally intended to visit Bolivia from Friday of this week, having looked at the distances that I would have to cover and the limited time I have I have opted instead to head up the coast of Peru to Trijiou. Manuel informs me that this area has some of the longest waves in world. I dont think I am ready for such waves so may stick to dry land whilst there. There is a huge amount of pre-inca and inca archaeology in this area (you may all let out a yawn or a sigh at this point) so I will be having a great time knee deep in history.

Righteo I must be off supper calls me!

Love to all xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Monday 21 April 2008

misty morning

When I walked to the beach this morning an errie mist had decended on the city. We were the only people on the beach apart from three fishermen chatting and fixing holes in their nets. We were joined in the sea by large pelicans who I think were much better at surfing than I.

What I really wanted to write down before I forgot it was something that I saw when in another part of the city the other day...there were road works being carried out at the side of the road. An old abandoned unloved car with flat tyres was parked and the laying pipes had continued around it and underneath. It was as if the car had been stranded by an ebbing tide. So maybe the saying should go every car is an island.

Sunday 20 April 2008

well I know what I will be doing at 6am tomorrow morning the question is do you?

The answer to this question for most sensible people would be "well I will be in bed dreaming of a world made entirely of ice cream". I however must reply "I will be surfing most probably stuck under my board arms waving frantically"

Yep you have guessed it he found me darn it I thought I had the Peruvian look tied down! Anyway unable as always to resist the idea of putting on a rubber suit in the early hours and frolicking in the surf I relented and now have reset my alarm and feel like heading for bed with a few surfing press ups thrown in for good measure. However, I stupidly accepted an invitation to meet for drinks with a friend, I do not feel that I will be the most thrilling company as they sit and marvel as I scratch my head constantly because of the amount of sand I took on board, and whilst I yawn in an over dramatised way and rub my eyes.

Just a little hint and tip from me to you when propositioned by a breath takingly handsome man on the beach carrying a surf board who takes you out for a drink dont sit there dreamingly nodding whilst staring into his eyes as you may be agreeing to entering into training to be a pro surfer when all you wanted was a dinner and a movie!

exhausted but happy

I write to you as above. A lovely weekend was had by all. Birthday celebrations for Vladimir on Friday which involved coupious amounts of Salsa and some greased up men dancing to Brazilian music (not greased up deaf guys for the benefit of EDD and DAN). Then after a very long night Saturday began with a beautiful lie in which I have not had in a long while and then a walk around and around (I got lost and refuse to read a map and am actually incapable of reading a map anyway).

After his very heavy night on Friday which led to the loss of his glasses Vladimir was not put off the idea of another night out so we headed off to Barranco. Begining the night in a wild way...with coffee and hot chocolates at a lovely small bar before off to the salsa clubs.

Bed at 5am and then up at 9am. Rudolfo collected me in the car, we were all apparently heading to a very good beach a drive away from the city. The sea mist had descended on lima and we decided it was time to head south. We bumped along the dirt roads swerving to avoid large potholes, flower sellers and tuk tuks. We arrived at the beach. The strangest beach I have ever seen. Not the beach itself but the small collection of houses, shops and resturants all clustered at the side of the dirt road, all constructed seemingly from what was washed up and all ghostly as it is low season here. We swam or rather jumped around in the sea, the large waves making it difficult to work on our butterfly strokes. I looked out at the surfers and began to think I prefer to watch them than to join in. As I am writing this however I have spotted out of the corner of my eye my surfing teacher so I will keep my head down and hope that he doesnt noitice the 6 foot tall white poodle headed gringo...I am sure I fit right in!

Friday 18 April 2008

due to popular demand a blog for everyone (you are still special to me Laura)

Hi everyone, a very busy few days here in Lima town, with much to report!

I have been surfing two early early mornings in a row. Meeting my surfing teacher who says to me "feel the sea surfing is a feeling" Well I told him today after the lesson that yes surfing was a feeling and that it mainly hurts. I have bruised ribs, cut feet (tredding on sea urchins), cut knees, and a nose full of water. My first lesson was very much fitting the description of beginners luck and for the catching of several waves I got a hearty pat on the back today however I recieved a muted good job and a practice practice.

Do you know what I would most like to do tonight? Lay in bed and watch a movie! I have been out and about everynight this week, drinks in lovers park on Monday, a meal and dancing salsa on Tuesday, the water park on wednesday with Peruvians who didnt speak English we communicated through a shared sense of regaining our childhood and running through all the fountains catching the bus home soaking wet, yesterday I met up with some guys I met last weekend and we took a tour of the local salsa clubs watching how it is all really done...exhausting just watching! Tonight I believe will follow the pattern of last weekend drinks at the beach watching the moon light and the reflection of the huge illuminated cross shimmer on the sea. And then off to Barranco for dancing. This time I hope to retain my shoes and not return home in the early hours looking as though I have been down a coal mine.

Today has been a day of first, it began as I waited at 6am in the park for Manuel, the surfing teacher, I saw my first wild humming bird zipping around the flowers. I have become quite accustommed to the large black vultures that constantly circle over head, but the sight of this little magical bird got me quite excited. Then there was the witnessing of my first Lima car crash...or to be correct I should say bus crash, not serious but enough to increase the horn noises for a good few minutes. Then perhaps most dramatc of all my first real shoot out outside the gates of the archaeological site. Shoot out makes it sound more like a wild west event. From what I could gather from the others on site, a man had tried to break into someones car, met resitance and shot the owner, luckily he wasnt too badly injured. But my goodness as I was dozing quitely after my busy morning awaking to the sound of a rapid succession of gun shots is not quite what I am used to in Guernsey!

What else can I say?....Answers on a post card to Mel in mad crazy but great fun Lima

Love to all xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Wednesday 16 April 2008

this one is for Laura!

Hello all from sunny Lima
I hope that life is treating you all well. I am in to my second week at the site and my second week smiling and nodding whilst Peruvians chat away to me and I do not understand. Thus far this tactic has worked and I was even able to purchase a mobile phone that works which I was unable to do even in my native tounge.

The days pass nicely with the mornings spent sorting through amazing finds whilst listening to Salsa music which is there to drown out Roddys insecent chatter. As a group of gringo (foreigners) volunteers we all went out last night to celebrate a birthday and then headed to a salsa club with lots of UV lights and dry ice. On the wall was painted Machu pichu in flourescent paints, I have never before seen Machu Pichu as a new rave destination but maybe now that will all change and it will become a destination of the Ibiza status for all the hip young things.

This afternoon I will head down to the beach to watch the surfers. On monday I was approached by a guy asking if I would like to learn to surf I declined preferring instead to sit and read but he was persistant and I gave in to his pursuation. The sun by this time however was setting so he said that I would be best to surf early on Tuesday morning for beginners waves and to avoide the harsh glare of both the public and the sun. I dutifully set my alarm for 5.30. However in my infinate wisdom I set the watch for 5.30 pm rather than am. i therefore left the poor surfer waiting for me on the beach at the unearthly hour of 6am whilst I was snug in my bed. I have decided that I can put up with the scrutinising eyes rather than get up at such an hour.

For now I hope that this will surfice as the sun is shining and I want to go and see what is happening at the beach!

Love to all xxxxxxxxxxx (especially Laura)

Sunday 13 April 2008

a sunday

After a frantic few nights of Salsa I am feeling the effects of sore feet and lack of sleep. Although I have been told that if I can relax my shoulders I should be good at the Salsa I think by the swiftness of step there may be more to the dance than just slouched shoulders!

To recover from such nights I am spending Sunday as it was truely intended and am off to read in the park and eat lunch in the sunshine whilst dreaming of what I hope to uncover whilst digging on Monday.

Lima is a scene of activity as the streets are cleaned resurfaced the flower beds watered and trees cut. All is in preperation in a few weeks time of the `world leaders´ arrive they will be visiting the site so the plan is to bury Bush.

Any way must pop off now and have something to eat before my rumbling tummy annoys the Peruvians too much!

Thursday 10 April 2008

Roddy!

Roddy truely does deserve such punctuation.
I had heard of Roddy, Roddy the scottish archaeologist, Roddy who is volunteering on the same site as me but was yet to meet him. And after spending all morning listening to his stories I wish that I was still ´yet to meet Roddy´.

He wondered into the finds hut about an hour late wearing the typical archaeologist uniform of crumpled shirt, beaded necklaces shorts dusty boots and wide hat. This looked promising until he opened his mouth, for hours I dutifully sat, listened, nodded and applauded his greatness where he paused for such reactions.
However, after all this I must have with one of my nods of agreement confirmed that we are to meet after work tomorrow for lunch and that we may go for drinks this weekend.
How I get into these messes I dont know but I also seem to be expected to call in for him on the way to work I may forget this duty as I enjoy a brisk walk in the mornings and despite the length of his white and hairy legs he seems unable to pick up much pace.

I just felt I should say something about Roddy as he atleast deserves a paragraph due to the time I was required to sit and listen to his tall tales.

Wednesday 9 April 2008

nearly time for supper so i must be quick

Oh my goodness I must be one of the biggest computer dunces! I have been trying to post for days only to realise today that I was entering the wrong address! I must add this to my list of general failings such as inability to open drinks cartons or scew the lid back on a bottle.

I hope that this message finds everyone well and content. I must certainly am if a little dusty, lungs full of fumes and fingernails encrusted with pre-inca Lima culture dirt...mmm what a nice picture I paint of Lima!

All is great here i am really enjoying myself meeting some lovely people from all around the world apart from the American hugely over weight man with hair the colour of an unwashed carrot who told me he spends his time here chasing girls I should think he has to chase them that is all I can say.

Well what can i tell you about Lima to give you an impression if you have not visited it before...

Lima is very much a feast for the senses, it is full to the brim with sights, sounds and smells.
The brightly coloured and odly named old American school buses that pound down the streets, men in blue uniforms hang out of their doors shouting the bus route, the flavour of roasted chicken that hangs in the air near the park in Miraflores, the fumes pumped from a fast food resturant, the men who all in blue overalls and peaked caps shine shoes for the smartly dressed businessmen, the street sweepers in their garish orange overalls carry what llok like props from a film of the borrowers, oversized old fashioned brooms and dustpans, the blind begger man who stands tapping his cane and calling out, the cars are perhaps the most notable and prevalent prescence in the city. They push and shove each other jostling for position on the busy streets sounding their multivarious horns at the slightest provication. If you so much as look up when walking a taxi of some description will pull up beside you to negotiate a price. All is frantic.


I dont know if this long and rambling paragraph helps to paint a picture of a city that even after such a short time has really gotten under my skin, both metophorically as well as literally but I must now go and eat sleep and maybe fit in some merriment!

Wednesday 2 April 2008

fogged in!

Well well Peru not quite as imminent as I had originally thought!
Having spent all day today rushing around finding out my phone was not going to work in Peru, buying a new one, packing and re packing, getting injected with Hep A and B and drinking what I thought were going to be my last cups of English tea I am still on the rock!

The sea mists rolled in and covered the little airport whilst the rest of the island basked in relative sunshine. Unfortunately this mist has prevented me from leaving for Peru! So atleast today has been a dress rehearsal and if all goes to a traditional plan then a bad dress rehearsal means a good performance! So I shall try again tomorrow.

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