I am now writing from the most unusual situation and location of all. I am sitting with a cushion on my lap and laptop, listening to the Today programme in my kitchen. Egypt and all that I saw there is a world away, the rain is hitting the windows and the air is cold.
I have many experiences that I need to expel and to write of before they disappear into some dark corner of my mind. The most frustrating thing that I find with the travelling that I have done this year is that as soon as I return home I easily slip back into the patterns I left and soon my trip is simply a collection of colourful memories.
So where do I begin, well I last wrote to yoiu all of Aswan and the treasures of Philae temple now I turn my attention to the Nubian and the felucca.
KUMUKA the FELUCCA and the TOOTLESS ARAB.
Before two nights on the Nile we took a boat directed by another Mohammed, this one dressed in traditional garb topped off with a baseball cap and a cheeky grin. He took us to a small island in the Nile where he and his family lived. The Nubian people find it hard to own land and so are often found to be living seperate from other Egyptians. We lept off the boat in the gathering darkness and clambered into the back of waiting open trucks. We were driven through the dusty dirt tracks of the small village, only a few orange street lamps illuminated scenes of men sitting in the gloom playing dominos and women wondereing along only able to see from their small slits in the black cloth balancing colourful baskets on their heads. Camels rise out of the darkness lolloping along enthusiastically encouraged by the young boys taking them for a ride. We pulledup outside a blue one storey bulding all the rooms opening onto a courtyard. All the floors in the complex made from yellowy orange sand. We were ushered to the far wall where cushions had been laid out in our honour. We were served with hot glasses of hibiscus tea and fried aubergines. In one of the small and sandy rooms an interview was taking place. The father of the family was inspecting a prospective suitor to his daughter. The boy had been offered by a local family and it was the father's choice as to whether a romance could develop.
We were entertained by the small children who ran around uninhibited by the assembled throng of expectant tourists. A beautiful lady drew henna designs on all the girl's arms as the men played drums and pipes whilst smoking shisha.
The next day we were heading off on to the Nile. We loaded on our bulging bags, packed with water and snacks as we were not able to buy any more supplies for a few days.
The sails were hoisted on our two boats and the cooling boxes were loaded with huge blocks of ice that the boys bashed with hammers breaking into more mangeable chunks. The two boats both called 'Captin Hash' and 'Roiling Stones' started off from the shore and tacked their way down river towards Luxor. The wind was not strong enough to make our progress particularly speedy which meant there was plenty of time to look at the passing scenery, the plants the people bathing in the water and the small boats being punted along.
We stopped in the late afternoon and some of us jumped straight in to the gloriously cool water and then ran up the sand dune my feet burning from the hot sands before diving back in to relieve the symptons.
The days spent on the water were glorious we stopped regularly for swimming as on board ship it was stiffling. The decks simply open with a tarporline strung up to provide shade and cushions to sleep on. The second night we stopped at the side of a marshy island with tethered cows grazing and the pink sunset reflected in the pools of water. The scene became less romantic when one of the members of our trip got horribly drunk, very easy to do in such heat, and wondered off to find somewhere to sleep. A search party was launched when her absence was noted. I set off with a head torch fell in a cow pat and was nearly attatcked by a randy bullock. But was all was fine and she was found sleeping soundly under a hedge.
On our last morning on the feluccas we moored for breakfast of hard boiled eggs and the flat bread, which I dont think I will ever be able to eat again with any pleasure after eating it for three meals a day for a month. People disembarked to find a suitable place to relieve themselves in the banana plantation on the shore and were met by a man intent on trying to sell them his bananas. So with crossed legs we departed by mini bus for the temples. I must admit after little sleep no showers and need of a more solid meal I was not at my most receptive on these temple visits. And instead my concentration was given to the icecream selection and drinking as much water as I could get inside me.
We arrived back in Luxor in the afternoon at the same camp. I swam in the pool and changed my clothes which was an absolute joy. At 9pm we were on a train heading for Cairo. The train journey began with excitement a large group of friends off on a journey this soon changed as we all got so cold, the door was broken and kept flapping open and kept us all awake. The train pulled in to Cairo at 10am the next day four hours late for no explicable reason apart from this is Egypt.
We were ushed into the Cairo museum yawning and stretching. All of the memories of bumping along on the railway lines soon disappeared as we were gawped at the antiquities. The lights shining off the glod of the death masks the smoothness of the marble.
In the afternoon three of us went off to explore Islamic Cairo. We had a fantastic but exhausting day walking the streets, eating brain sandwiches from the street vendors and climbing the minaret of a beautiful mosque. We stood in contemplation looking acorss the rooves of Cairo and the minarets of the mosques and the Citadel.
That was my last night before an early morning and a long journey home with 4 airports and 1 bus station.
And here I am willing the sun to shine and trying to get back into the old routine.
I hope that you are all well and I will catchup soon and exchange stories.
Love to all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thursday 21 August 2008
Tuesday 12 August 2008
kings queens nad grandad
I am writing from a place charmingly called interent coffee in Aswan Egypt. It is located on the busy Nile street and I can hear the tooting of the old perguet taxis and the roaring engines of the converted trucks which serve as brightly decorated buses, their multi coloured mud flaps adding colour to the street scene.
Since my last entry time has flown by. I spent the day with the friendly police man Said, he took Bryony and I too lunch dressed in his crisp white uniform buttons gliztening in the sun, I then met him for tea in the afternoon and we sat on golden thrones in a small shop sipping Hibiscus tea. These chance meetings often end up being the most enjoyable.
After another night in Hurgahda the awful tourist town it was off in the afternoon of the following day in convoy bound for Luxor.
An early start after this long journey for a sunrise hot air balloon trip over the valley of the kings.
It was beautiful I have never experienced the sensation of calmy floating. We watched the sun rise over the Nile the valley of the kings become pink with early morning light and the farmers begin to till the fields.
After a smooth landing and a dance with the local children who came running or riding on donkeys we set off to the valley itself. It was rather a disappointing experience. The tombs were crowded and we shuffled round as if on a conveyour belt unable to properly pay repsect to the amazing paintings and carvings. By 11am it was blisteringly hot. we headed to watch some Alabaster being shaped into goblets and vases. I fell in love with a statue of Queen Neffitii, however I decided that due to price and space I had to leave her behind. After an afternoon at the temple of Hatshuptu we headed back into Luxor. I went to use the internet cafe but unfortunately there was another power cut and the telephone line was down so instead I popped into the next door shop to browse. Whom should I see high on a shelf but my Queen in deep blue. Two old men sat at a desk watching my growing enthusiasm. I then spent the afternoon with them drinking tea and talking and ofcourse being pursuaded that I could not live without Neffattii. So now it is with heavy rucksac I will return home leaving clothes at every port to ease the load.
From Luxor it was onto Aswan by train. An early morning up to make breakfast for everyone and to the station to catch the 7am train leaving the truck behind. We waited and waited the train finally arrived at 9.45am! I dont think I will complain about British rail again. We arrived in Aswan and then we were off with our Egyptian Grandad. A gorgeous old man, a pure charmer, wearing white shirt trousers gloffing cap and slippers. He walked gracefully swinnging his walking stick. Everyone fell in love with him at first sight. He took us to Temple of Phillae. A beautiful temple on an island reached by small motor boat. We stayed there for a long time watching the shadows lengthen and the heat drain from the air.
And now here I am thinking it is late afternoon as I have been up since 3 am. We had to set off early to Abu Simbel. The drive taking 3 hours. We all slept on the way there waking to see the water and in the distance Sudan and the Sahara desert. The temple was stunning and I really mean that, I walked in awed silence hushed by the skill and the splendour and the sheer scale of the carvings. Walking between two statues of Rameses II 2o metres high into a cool dark room, the ceiling supported by beautiful statues.
What a place. So we explored and then headed back arriving back in Aswan at lunch time.
Tomorrow we take to the Nile for a few days cruising on a traditional felucca to Luxor. I cannot believe I am heading home so soon! I will see you all anon
Love to all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Since my last entry time has flown by. I spent the day with the friendly police man Said, he took Bryony and I too lunch dressed in his crisp white uniform buttons gliztening in the sun, I then met him for tea in the afternoon and we sat on golden thrones in a small shop sipping Hibiscus tea. These chance meetings often end up being the most enjoyable.
After another night in Hurgahda the awful tourist town it was off in the afternoon of the following day in convoy bound for Luxor.
An early start after this long journey for a sunrise hot air balloon trip over the valley of the kings.
It was beautiful I have never experienced the sensation of calmy floating. We watched the sun rise over the Nile the valley of the kings become pink with early morning light and the farmers begin to till the fields.
After a smooth landing and a dance with the local children who came running or riding on donkeys we set off to the valley itself. It was rather a disappointing experience. The tombs were crowded and we shuffled round as if on a conveyour belt unable to properly pay repsect to the amazing paintings and carvings. By 11am it was blisteringly hot. we headed to watch some Alabaster being shaped into goblets and vases. I fell in love with a statue of Queen Neffitii, however I decided that due to price and space I had to leave her behind. After an afternoon at the temple of Hatshuptu we headed back into Luxor. I went to use the internet cafe but unfortunately there was another power cut and the telephone line was down so instead I popped into the next door shop to browse. Whom should I see high on a shelf but my Queen in deep blue. Two old men sat at a desk watching my growing enthusiasm. I then spent the afternoon with them drinking tea and talking and ofcourse being pursuaded that I could not live without Neffattii. So now it is with heavy rucksac I will return home leaving clothes at every port to ease the load.
From Luxor it was onto Aswan by train. An early morning up to make breakfast for everyone and to the station to catch the 7am train leaving the truck behind. We waited and waited the train finally arrived at 9.45am! I dont think I will complain about British rail again. We arrived in Aswan and then we were off with our Egyptian Grandad. A gorgeous old man, a pure charmer, wearing white shirt trousers gloffing cap and slippers. He walked gracefully swinnging his walking stick. Everyone fell in love with him at first sight. He took us to Temple of Phillae. A beautiful temple on an island reached by small motor boat. We stayed there for a long time watching the shadows lengthen and the heat drain from the air.
And now here I am thinking it is late afternoon as I have been up since 3 am. We had to set off early to Abu Simbel. The drive taking 3 hours. We all slept on the way there waking to see the water and in the distance Sudan and the Sahara desert. The temple was stunning and I really mean that, I walked in awed silence hushed by the skill and the splendour and the sheer scale of the carvings. Walking between two statues of Rameses II 2o metres high into a cool dark room, the ceiling supported by beautiful statues.
What a place. So we explored and then headed back arriving back in Aswan at lunch time.
Tomorrow we take to the Nile for a few days cruising on a traditional felucca to Luxor. I cannot believe I am heading home so soon! I will see you all anon
Love to all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Friday 8 August 2008
karnak convoys and ministry of sound
A few days of contrast. I write to you from Spider Net "Enternet cafe". There have been some great lost in translation signs on this trip I really should have been keeping a record of them, yesterday I ate at a resturant serving Stiffed chicken and mashrums. One of the best was a sign welcome to the kingdome of Jordan.
In Luxor before departing for Hurgada we spent the morning at the two temples, of Karnak and of Luxor. Beautiful structures of towering pillars complete with original colours and pigments from 3000 years ago. The heat was intense and even at 9am we were all suffering. We will return to Luxor in a few days to explore the valley of the kings. We ate lunch in a local place having plates of koshery (lentils and tomatoes) before departing in a convoy for hurgada. For about 10 years since some tourists were murdered making sucha a journey the Egyptian government had made it compulsory for all tourists to travel in a convoy. So we trucked along being over taken by all the air conditioned buses packed full of beautifully tanned individuals sitting in their reclining seats sipping drinks secure in the knowledge that they had a toilet on board. We were not in the least bit jealous in our 40 year old ex army truck with such hard suspension, no air condition and the orrder that there would be no toilet stops for 4 hours. It was a long hot 6 hour drive. The scenery changing from lush valley people bathing on the river with the aligators palm trees providing shelter as old men squatted drinking tea. Local militia on every bridge bearing pump action rifles and machine guns waved to us with toothless grins as we bounced past.
And then we arrived in Hurgada, an awful shrine to the breeze block and concrete. This is the side to Egypt that has beenm disappointing the mass tourism, the peroxide blondes hobbling on in high heels and push up bras between bars serving full english breakfasts and beer fro m home. Bryony and I xchanged looks of mutual understanding and had to just embrace the tackiness. Last night in honour of our driver's birthday it was traditional dress night. We were all made to wear traditional Arabic dress I opted for the male outfit and resembeled an old man in pjamamas. We ate club sandwiches and drank pina coladas. After being made to down a litre of beer to the shouts of chug chug Myk the birthday boy was carried home. I headed to a local club, the ministry of sound has found its way here adapting with the addition of sand and palm trees. We danced away until 4am and then headed back home. And here I am in an internet cafe that was closed but after a cup of tea with a local police man Salid whom I met last night it has been opened in our honour.
i will be glad to be leaving this place tomorrow agian in a convoy back to Luxor. To be able to be some where with heritage.
I love you all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
In Luxor before departing for Hurgada we spent the morning at the two temples, of Karnak and of Luxor. Beautiful structures of towering pillars complete with original colours and pigments from 3000 years ago. The heat was intense and even at 9am we were all suffering. We will return to Luxor in a few days to explore the valley of the kings. We ate lunch in a local place having plates of koshery (lentils and tomatoes) before departing in a convoy for hurgada. For about 10 years since some tourists were murdered making sucha a journey the Egyptian government had made it compulsory for all tourists to travel in a convoy. So we trucked along being over taken by all the air conditioned buses packed full of beautifully tanned individuals sitting in their reclining seats sipping drinks secure in the knowledge that they had a toilet on board. We were not in the least bit jealous in our 40 year old ex army truck with such hard suspension, no air condition and the orrder that there would be no toilet stops for 4 hours. It was a long hot 6 hour drive. The scenery changing from lush valley people bathing on the river with the aligators palm trees providing shelter as old men squatted drinking tea. Local militia on every bridge bearing pump action rifles and machine guns waved to us with toothless grins as we bounced past.
And then we arrived in Hurgada, an awful shrine to the breeze block and concrete. This is the side to Egypt that has beenm disappointing the mass tourism, the peroxide blondes hobbling on in high heels and push up bras between bars serving full english breakfasts and beer fro m home. Bryony and I xchanged looks of mutual understanding and had to just embrace the tackiness. Last night in honour of our driver's birthday it was traditional dress night. We were all made to wear traditional Arabic dress I opted for the male outfit and resembeled an old man in pjamamas. We ate club sandwiches and drank pina coladas. After being made to down a litre of beer to the shouts of chug chug Myk the birthday boy was carried home. I headed to a local club, the ministry of sound has found its way here adapting with the addition of sand and palm trees. We danced away until 4am and then headed back home. And here I am in an internet cafe that was closed but after a cup of tea with a local police man Salid whom I met last night it has been opened in our honour.
i will be glad to be leaving this place tomorrow agian in a convoy back to Luxor. To be able to be some where with heritage.
I love you all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Wednesday 6 August 2008
what's white black and hot all over?
The answer is camping in the black and the white desert in Egypt in the hight of summer!
I have just arrived in Luxor and have been in a swimming pool!! It was fantastic after three days of no showers and seemingly endless hours of hot sun with no shade to dive into cool clear water.
Since my last blogg I have developed more affection for egypt. After leaving Dahab at 8.30pm we drove through the night in the heat until about 11.30pm. We pulled up in an empty car park where we were unloaded and with head torches illuminating the rocky path started a less than enthusiastic accent of mount sinai. Camels loomed out of the darkness their white robed Bedouin owners muttering camel camel to the top. We puffed our way up, the sky a beautiful sight. We stopped at the small stone tea stops along the way, our red flushed faces cast with shadows from the oil lamps. We ate chocolate bars and drank coke. At 2.30pm we reached the top disorientated and ready for sleep. We snuggled down on some rocks being bitten by fleas in the blankets we had hired. I slept soundly until 5.30pm when I awoke and looked around. We were surrounded by hundreds of people, there was gossple singing and chanting and the sky was turning blue. We were treated to a beautiful sun rise the mountains around us turining a rosey pink. We decended as soon as the sun had risen to beat the assembled masses. At the bottom we cooked up a breakfast and started the long drive to Cairo.
We arrived in the early evening and were all too tired to get up to much and instead enjoyed the air conditioning. It was an early start once we had been able to cross the busy insane roads of the capital, and off into the desert. We just stopped along the way for extra water and supplies oh and ofcourse we spent the morning at the pyramids. The reason I nearly forgot to add that in as I was very under whelmed and have found much more pleasure and delight in the uncrowded sights that Syria had to offer.
We camped that night in the black desert called thus because the ground is littered with black volcanic stones. We lit a fire and sat and chatted watching the shooting stars above head. The next day it was another long day on the truck this seems to be the pattern for egypt. We drove to the white desert reaching it by lunch time. It was an odd landscape, beautiful white towers of soft snadstone carved and shaped by the weather. I sat under the truck the heat was intense to hot to move until about 6pm so I sat my back against the back mudguards abnd my head fitting perfectly under the spare tyre. In the evening we barbequed and admired the rocks as they became coloured by the setting sun.
In the morining we drove a short distance to an oasis town where we met an artist inspired by the desert. His house is a shrine to the sand and to the rocks, all the walls carved with the scenes of bedouin life. It was a strain to tear ourselves away from the relaxing and cool court yard and to be loaded back into the truck.
We drove all afternoon and arrived in another oasis ton where we were shown on to Mohammed's roof. We explored the ancient mud village nearby before all being allowed a 5 minute shower before supper. Mohammed presented us with dishes of beautiful food which we all tucked into heartly. Then it was a game of dominos and bed as we set off at 4.30am.
And now here I am after a drive from 4.30am through until 2.30pm! A long day.
I think I have pretty much filled you in. I am sorry that this reads rather like a list! Tomorrow we are off to explore Luxor and then on to the coast to enjoy two days of relaxation...bliss! I have become known as one of the trucking girls as I have been riding up front my main job to pass drinks to the driver mike and to keep him hydrated with the water spray as the temperature in the cab reaches into the mid 40s!
Well I must go we are out to dinner and then I think I will hit the sack...our room has air con!
p.s. I didnt explain Al capone reference. Whilst in Dahab we fequented a resturant and bar that served gorgeous sea food and fruit juices called Al capone's.
So there you go I love and miss you all muchly!
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
I have just arrived in Luxor and have been in a swimming pool!! It was fantastic after three days of no showers and seemingly endless hours of hot sun with no shade to dive into cool clear water.
Since my last blogg I have developed more affection for egypt. After leaving Dahab at 8.30pm we drove through the night in the heat until about 11.30pm. We pulled up in an empty car park where we were unloaded and with head torches illuminating the rocky path started a less than enthusiastic accent of mount sinai. Camels loomed out of the darkness their white robed Bedouin owners muttering camel camel to the top. We puffed our way up, the sky a beautiful sight. We stopped at the small stone tea stops along the way, our red flushed faces cast with shadows from the oil lamps. We ate chocolate bars and drank coke. At 2.30pm we reached the top disorientated and ready for sleep. We snuggled down on some rocks being bitten by fleas in the blankets we had hired. I slept soundly until 5.30pm when I awoke and looked around. We were surrounded by hundreds of people, there was gossple singing and chanting and the sky was turning blue. We were treated to a beautiful sun rise the mountains around us turining a rosey pink. We decended as soon as the sun had risen to beat the assembled masses. At the bottom we cooked up a breakfast and started the long drive to Cairo.
We arrived in the early evening and were all too tired to get up to much and instead enjoyed the air conditioning. It was an early start once we had been able to cross the busy insane roads of the capital, and off into the desert. We just stopped along the way for extra water and supplies oh and ofcourse we spent the morning at the pyramids. The reason I nearly forgot to add that in as I was very under whelmed and have found much more pleasure and delight in the uncrowded sights that Syria had to offer.
We camped that night in the black desert called thus because the ground is littered with black volcanic stones. We lit a fire and sat and chatted watching the shooting stars above head. The next day it was another long day on the truck this seems to be the pattern for egypt. We drove to the white desert reaching it by lunch time. It was an odd landscape, beautiful white towers of soft snadstone carved and shaped by the weather. I sat under the truck the heat was intense to hot to move until about 6pm so I sat my back against the back mudguards abnd my head fitting perfectly under the spare tyre. In the evening we barbequed and admired the rocks as they became coloured by the setting sun.
In the morining we drove a short distance to an oasis town where we met an artist inspired by the desert. His house is a shrine to the sand and to the rocks, all the walls carved with the scenes of bedouin life. It was a strain to tear ourselves away from the relaxing and cool court yard and to be loaded back into the truck.
We drove all afternoon and arrived in another oasis ton where we were shown on to Mohammed's roof. We explored the ancient mud village nearby before all being allowed a 5 minute shower before supper. Mohammed presented us with dishes of beautiful food which we all tucked into heartly. Then it was a game of dominos and bed as we set off at 4.30am.
And now here I am after a drive from 4.30am through until 2.30pm! A long day.
I think I have pretty much filled you in. I am sorry that this reads rather like a list! Tomorrow we are off to explore Luxor and then on to the coast to enjoy two days of relaxation...bliss! I have become known as one of the trucking girls as I have been riding up front my main job to pass drinks to the driver mike and to keep him hydrated with the water spray as the temperature in the cab reaches into the mid 40s!
Well I must go we are out to dinner and then I think I will hit the sack...our room has air con!
p.s. I didnt explain Al capone reference. Whilst in Dahab we fequented a resturant and bar that served gorgeous sea food and fruit juices called Al capone's.
So there you go I love and miss you all muchly!
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Friday 1 August 2008
sea salt and Al capone
Hello from Dahab,
I am now in Egypt. We arrived a few days ago after a long long journey. From Petra we drove to town from where we sat and watched the sun set over the sea and the mountains. We could see Saudi Arabia and Israel at the same time quite magical./ This drive came after a morning spent in the back of clapped out old trucks buzzing around the wadi Rum desert. Being awe struck by the rock formations and the colours. By 11am it was deathly hot and we headed to the truck.
After watching the sun set we slept under the stars in an open bedouin tent.
I am sorry this entry is particularly jumpy and organised. I blame the heat and the water in my ears. I have been snorkelling all morning in the red sea. We jumped in the back of an old jeep and headed along a dusty and dirty track flanked by camels and the amazing blue of the clear water. We sat in the cool of bedouin cafe drinking hot sweet tea before putting on our flippers and masks and heading into the deep. The colours were beautiful, brightly coloured fish intricate patterns and sharfts of light piercing the depths. We sat salty and tired eating thin pizza and drinking fresh lemon juice.
Yesterday was a free day in Dahab, we needed this time to relax and reccuporate after a long crossing from JOrdan lots of time spent in the baking heat. We arrived in Dahab at 8pm. We ate lobster and prawns by the sea and then a select group of us with no sense went out dancing. We ended up in a club where they had a beach volley ball pitch in the centre so we challenged the bar staff to a game, needless to say we were beaten. The free day was spent relaxing, drinking juice overlooking the sea and haggling on the p[rice of souvenirs. Four of us more adventurous girls hired quad bikes in the afternoon and drove off to an oasis across the sand. We returned after two hours covered in dust but happy.
I dont think there is much more I can say, we are really in a touristy area so I am waiting to see a different less bright and western side of Egypt.
I love you all but must rest now as in a few hours we are driving to mount sinai and climbing it at 10 pm. We should reach the summit at about midnight and then watch the sun rise.
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
I am now in Egypt. We arrived a few days ago after a long long journey. From Petra we drove to town from where we sat and watched the sun set over the sea and the mountains. We could see Saudi Arabia and Israel at the same time quite magical./ This drive came after a morning spent in the back of clapped out old trucks buzzing around the wadi Rum desert. Being awe struck by the rock formations and the colours. By 11am it was deathly hot and we headed to the truck.
After watching the sun set we slept under the stars in an open bedouin tent.
I am sorry this entry is particularly jumpy and organised. I blame the heat and the water in my ears. I have been snorkelling all morning in the red sea. We jumped in the back of an old jeep and headed along a dusty and dirty track flanked by camels and the amazing blue of the clear water. We sat in the cool of bedouin cafe drinking hot sweet tea before putting on our flippers and masks and heading into the deep. The colours were beautiful, brightly coloured fish intricate patterns and sharfts of light piercing the depths. We sat salty and tired eating thin pizza and drinking fresh lemon juice.
Yesterday was a free day in Dahab, we needed this time to relax and reccuporate after a long crossing from JOrdan lots of time spent in the baking heat. We arrived in Dahab at 8pm. We ate lobster and prawns by the sea and then a select group of us with no sense went out dancing. We ended up in a club where they had a beach volley ball pitch in the centre so we challenged the bar staff to a game, needless to say we were beaten. The free day was spent relaxing, drinking juice overlooking the sea and haggling on the p[rice of souvenirs. Four of us more adventurous girls hired quad bikes in the afternoon and drove off to an oasis across the sand. We returned after two hours covered in dust but happy.
I dont think there is much more I can say, we are really in a touristy area so I am waiting to see a different less bright and western side of Egypt.
I love you all but must rest now as in a few hours we are driving to mount sinai and climbing it at 10 pm. We should reach the summit at about midnight and then watch the sun rise.
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Monday 28 July 2008
perfect petra
I am sitting ina very chic hotel feeling out of place in my dusty clothes. I have come across the road from our modest hostel with crooked and wonky stairs to this air conditioned delight.
What a day...let me think when did I last update you?
Well after Amman we drove to the dead sea. We had the place to ourselves and bobbed about in the warm water. A strange experience before covering ourselves in mud and feeling very smooth. We drove up through the mountains looking down at the crystal blue water. The salt on the shore line creating the illusion of a wave frozen whilst breaking.
We arrived after a long day in wadi mussa. We sat in the evening outside the hotel, a stream runs past the front steps from the spring so we chilled our wine as ladies washed their clothes.
Today was up early and off to Petra just a few miles down the road but a different world. We arrived early so as to take advantage of the relative coolness. What a place! The colours of the rock, the skill of the carving the expanse, the canyons.Nature and man working in harmony to create unfaulting beauty. We walked for hours and hours wondering through the ancient world so perfectly preserved. We climbed the high hill to the monestry where we sat under the shade of hessian sacks on beduion seats and watched the donkeys and admired the stone. It was so hot in the afternoon that we retreated and sat in a beudoin tent where we were invited to share gorgeous sage tea. And now here I am tired dusty but inspired and excited about the prospect of Wadi rum desert tomorrow.
I love you all but must now leave as my stomach tells me it is time to eat!
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
What a day...let me think when did I last update you?
Well after Amman we drove to the dead sea. We had the place to ourselves and bobbed about in the warm water. A strange experience before covering ourselves in mud and feeling very smooth. We drove up through the mountains looking down at the crystal blue water. The salt on the shore line creating the illusion of a wave frozen whilst breaking.
We arrived after a long day in wadi mussa. We sat in the evening outside the hotel, a stream runs past the front steps from the spring so we chilled our wine as ladies washed their clothes.
Today was up early and off to Petra just a few miles down the road but a different world. We arrived early so as to take advantage of the relative coolness. What a place! The colours of the rock, the skill of the carving the expanse, the canyons.Nature and man working in harmony to create unfaulting beauty. We walked for hours and hours wondering through the ancient world so perfectly preserved. We climbed the high hill to the monestry where we sat under the shade of hessian sacks on beduion seats and watched the donkeys and admired the stone. It was so hot in the afternoon that we retreated and sat in a beudoin tent where we were invited to share gorgeous sage tea. And now here I am tired dusty but inspired and excited about the prospect of Wadi rum desert tomorrow.
I love you all but must now leave as my stomach tells me it is time to eat!
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Saturday 26 July 2008
smoke, heat, dirty feet and camel heads
Hello everyone, longtime no communicate. I am sorry for my lack of insites into the world of the middle east. The problem has been a constant movement and a lack of internet. the last time I was "online" was in a small town in Syria where as soon as I signed in we had a power cut and all connection to the outside world was lost.
So now here i am a world away from the grey london that I last spoke of and instead sitting in a smokey internet cafe with the sound of busy streets below and wailing arabic music. What a week it has been! Bry and I arrived after a stressful Heathrow experience and a cramped flight. we were hot and tired as we que qued up for our visas.
We met up with the rest of our travelling friends on the Saturday evening, strange to think I have only known these people for a week, we are all so close having to squat at the side of the road to relieve oneself after 3 litres of water and 5 hours in the truck is a leveling experience!
It has been amazing. We started in Amman in Jordan from where on the Sunday morning we drove to Jerash a beautiful Roman city near Amman. We explored before the heat of the day really set in and then "trucked" off to the Jordan Syrian border, and drove all the way to Damascus. The border crossing went smoothly apart from some rather enthusiastic waving of a machine gun by the border guard. Once through the barriers and into Syria we were greeted by waves from all directions. Children ran out from their houses and the old men sitting in the shade respectfully acknowledged our passing.
Syria well what can I say what a wonderful time we had, what friendly people and what sights to be seen. Every building is graced with a huge portrait of the President politics and religion are visible to a degree that I have never before experienced.
We started in Damascus, camping over night on a patch of green and cultivated grass behind a garage on a main and busy road into the centre of the city. We had a day to explore the large and wondering souqs, to inhale to spices to see the gold twinkling in the spots of sunlight finding their way through holes in the roof. Sacks of saffron, rose buds, soaps, animal carcuses and camel heads sit side by side as men sit at sewing machines or weld sending sparks into the narrow streets. The buildings crowd together over hanging and providing ample shade and protectin from the sun. We sat with some old toothless men who invited us to tea outside their homes sitting in the shade sipping hot sweet liquid.
From Damascus we trucked east to Palmayra a desert oasis of the Roman period. the springs are all but dry but the town remains. We rode camels at sunrise amongst the beautifully carved collumns that rose majestically from the sand monuments to a noble civilization, tinged pink by the rising orb. Sleeping under the stars pleased to have relief from the heat which rose into the mid forties.
We waved goodbye to Palmayra and headed to the famous castle of Crac des Chevaliers where we explored the secret passage ways and then headed to our hotel which stood on the opposite side of the valley. We sat on the balcony pleased to feel as though we were back in civilization with western toilets and a shower which was strong enough to wash under.
From Crac we headed to Aleppo my favorite port of call in Syria. We toured to souqs, ten kilometres long. We squeezed along side the donkies, and were temped by the colourful carpets. we stood atop the citadel and were transfixed by the city. In the early evening I stood on the hostel's balcony and listened as all the city's mosques began their mournful and wailing call to prayer. A beautiful resonant echo across the roof tops bouncing from minaret to minaret.
Then a long 8 hour drive to Bosra. A strange town with a sad feeling and presence. people squatting in the Roman and Byzantine buildings sit Roman collumn tops, using them as garden chairs. We camped in a resturant alongside the 15000 capacity roman ampitheatre.
And now here we are back in the capital of Jordan with another boarder crossing done and another stamp in my passport. I am looking forward to Jordan to the dead sea to petra to Wadi Rum, but i am unsure as to when I will next be able to write. So all that is left to say os goodbye and I love you all so much!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
So now here i am a world away from the grey london that I last spoke of and instead sitting in a smokey internet cafe with the sound of busy streets below and wailing arabic music. What a week it has been! Bry and I arrived after a stressful Heathrow experience and a cramped flight. we were hot and tired as we que qued up for our visas.
We met up with the rest of our travelling friends on the Saturday evening, strange to think I have only known these people for a week, we are all so close having to squat at the side of the road to relieve oneself after 3 litres of water and 5 hours in the truck is a leveling experience!
It has been amazing. We started in Amman in Jordan from where on the Sunday morning we drove to Jerash a beautiful Roman city near Amman. We explored before the heat of the day really set in and then "trucked" off to the Jordan Syrian border, and drove all the way to Damascus. The border crossing went smoothly apart from some rather enthusiastic waving of a machine gun by the border guard. Once through the barriers and into Syria we were greeted by waves from all directions. Children ran out from their houses and the old men sitting in the shade respectfully acknowledged our passing.
Syria well what can I say what a wonderful time we had, what friendly people and what sights to be seen. Every building is graced with a huge portrait of the President politics and religion are visible to a degree that I have never before experienced.
We started in Damascus, camping over night on a patch of green and cultivated grass behind a garage on a main and busy road into the centre of the city. We had a day to explore the large and wondering souqs, to inhale to spices to see the gold twinkling in the spots of sunlight finding their way through holes in the roof. Sacks of saffron, rose buds, soaps, animal carcuses and camel heads sit side by side as men sit at sewing machines or weld sending sparks into the narrow streets. The buildings crowd together over hanging and providing ample shade and protectin from the sun. We sat with some old toothless men who invited us to tea outside their homes sitting in the shade sipping hot sweet liquid.
From Damascus we trucked east to Palmayra a desert oasis of the Roman period. the springs are all but dry but the town remains. We rode camels at sunrise amongst the beautifully carved collumns that rose majestically from the sand monuments to a noble civilization, tinged pink by the rising orb. Sleeping under the stars pleased to have relief from the heat which rose into the mid forties.
We waved goodbye to Palmayra and headed to the famous castle of Crac des Chevaliers where we explored the secret passage ways and then headed to our hotel which stood on the opposite side of the valley. We sat on the balcony pleased to feel as though we were back in civilization with western toilets and a shower which was strong enough to wash under.
From Crac we headed to Aleppo my favorite port of call in Syria. We toured to souqs, ten kilometres long. We squeezed along side the donkies, and were temped by the colourful carpets. we stood atop the citadel and were transfixed by the city. In the early evening I stood on the hostel's balcony and listened as all the city's mosques began their mournful and wailing call to prayer. A beautiful resonant echo across the roof tops bouncing from minaret to minaret.
Then a long 8 hour drive to Bosra. A strange town with a sad feeling and presence. people squatting in the Roman and Byzantine buildings sit Roman collumn tops, using them as garden chairs. We camped in a resturant alongside the 15000 capacity roman ampitheatre.
And now here we are back in the capital of Jordan with another boarder crossing done and another stamp in my passport. I am looking forward to Jordan to the dead sea to petra to Wadi Rum, but i am unsure as to when I will next be able to write. So all that is left to say os goodbye and I love you all so much!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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