karnak convoys and ministry of sound

A few days of contrast. I write to you from Spider Net "Enternet cafe". There have been some great lost in translation signs on this trip I really should have been keeping a record of them, yesterday I ate at a resturant serving Stiffed chicken and mashrums. One of the best was a sign welcome to the kingdome of Jordan.

In Luxor before departing for Hurgada we spent the morning at the two temples, of Karnak and of Luxor. Beautiful structures of towering pillars complete with original colours and pigments from 3000 years ago. The heat was intense and even at 9am we were all suffering. We will return to Luxor in a few days to explore the valley of the kings. We ate lunch in a local place having plates of koshery (lentils and tomatoes) before departing in a convoy for hurgada. For about 10 years since some tourists were murdered making sucha a journey the Egyptian government had made it compulsory for all tourists to travel in a convoy. So we trucked along being over taken by all the air conditioned buses packed full of beautifully tanned individuals sitting in their reclining seats sipping drinks secure in the knowledge that they had a toilet on board. We were not in the least bit jealous in our 40 year old ex army truck with such hard suspension, no air condition and the orrder that there would be no toilet stops for 4 hours. It was a long hot 6 hour drive. The scenery changing from lush valley people bathing on the river with the aligators palm trees providing shelter as old men squatted drinking tea. Local militia on every bridge bearing pump action rifles and machine guns waved to us with toothless grins as we bounced past.

And then we arrived in Hurgada, an awful shrine to the breeze block and concrete. This is the side to Egypt that has beenm disappointing the mass tourism, the peroxide blondes hobbling on in high heels and push up bras between bars serving full english breakfasts and beer fro m home. Bryony and I xchanged looks of mutual understanding and had to just embrace the tackiness. Last night in honour of our driver's birthday it was traditional dress night. We were all made to wear traditional Arabic dress I opted for the male outfit and resembeled an old man in pjamamas. We ate club sandwiches and drank pina coladas. After being made to down a litre of beer to the shouts of chug chug Myk the birthday boy was carried home. I headed to a local club, the ministry of sound has found its way here adapting with the addition of sand and palm trees. We danced away until 4am and then headed back home. And here I am in an internet cafe that was closed but after a cup of tea with a local police man Salid whom I met last night it has been opened in our honour.

i will be glad to be leaving this place tomorrow agian in a convoy back to Luxor. To be able to be some where with heritage.

I love you all

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