I am sitting ina very chic hotel feeling out of place in my dusty clothes. I have come across the road from our modest hostel with crooked and wonky stairs to this air conditioned delight.
What a day...let me think when did I last update you?
Well after Amman we drove to the dead sea. We had the place to ourselves and bobbed about in the warm water. A strange experience before covering ourselves in mud and feeling very smooth. We drove up through the mountains looking down at the crystal blue water. The salt on the shore line creating the illusion of a wave frozen whilst breaking.
We arrived after a long day in wadi mussa. We sat in the evening outside the hotel, a stream runs past the front steps from the spring so we chilled our wine as ladies washed their clothes.
Today was up early and off to Petra just a few miles down the road but a different world. We arrived early so as to take advantage of the relative coolness. What a place! The colours of the rock, the skill of the carving the expanse, the canyons.Nature and man working in harmony to create unfaulting beauty. We walked for hours and hours wondering through the ancient world so perfectly preserved. We climbed the high hill to the monestry where we sat under the shade of hessian sacks on beduion seats and watched the donkeys and admired the stone. It was so hot in the afternoon that we retreated and sat in a beudoin tent where we were invited to share gorgeous sage tea. And now here I am tired dusty but inspired and excited about the prospect of Wadi rum desert tomorrow.
I love you all but must now leave as my stomach tells me it is time to eat!
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Monday 28 July 2008
Saturday 26 July 2008
smoke, heat, dirty feet and camel heads
Hello everyone, longtime no communicate. I am sorry for my lack of insites into the world of the middle east. The problem has been a constant movement and a lack of internet. the last time I was "online" was in a small town in Syria where as soon as I signed in we had a power cut and all connection to the outside world was lost.
So now here i am a world away from the grey london that I last spoke of and instead sitting in a smokey internet cafe with the sound of busy streets below and wailing arabic music. What a week it has been! Bry and I arrived after a stressful Heathrow experience and a cramped flight. we were hot and tired as we que qued up for our visas.
We met up with the rest of our travelling friends on the Saturday evening, strange to think I have only known these people for a week, we are all so close having to squat at the side of the road to relieve oneself after 3 litres of water and 5 hours in the truck is a leveling experience!
It has been amazing. We started in Amman in Jordan from where on the Sunday morning we drove to Jerash a beautiful Roman city near Amman. We explored before the heat of the day really set in and then "trucked" off to the Jordan Syrian border, and drove all the way to Damascus. The border crossing went smoothly apart from some rather enthusiastic waving of a machine gun by the border guard. Once through the barriers and into Syria we were greeted by waves from all directions. Children ran out from their houses and the old men sitting in the shade respectfully acknowledged our passing.
Syria well what can I say what a wonderful time we had, what friendly people and what sights to be seen. Every building is graced with a huge portrait of the President politics and religion are visible to a degree that I have never before experienced.
We started in Damascus, camping over night on a patch of green and cultivated grass behind a garage on a main and busy road into the centre of the city. We had a day to explore the large and wondering souqs, to inhale to spices to see the gold twinkling in the spots of sunlight finding their way through holes in the roof. Sacks of saffron, rose buds, soaps, animal carcuses and camel heads sit side by side as men sit at sewing machines or weld sending sparks into the narrow streets. The buildings crowd together over hanging and providing ample shade and protectin from the sun. We sat with some old toothless men who invited us to tea outside their homes sitting in the shade sipping hot sweet liquid.
From Damascus we trucked east to Palmayra a desert oasis of the Roman period. the springs are all but dry but the town remains. We rode camels at sunrise amongst the beautifully carved collumns that rose majestically from the sand monuments to a noble civilization, tinged pink by the rising orb. Sleeping under the stars pleased to have relief from the heat which rose into the mid forties.
We waved goodbye to Palmayra and headed to the famous castle of Crac des Chevaliers where we explored the secret passage ways and then headed to our hotel which stood on the opposite side of the valley. We sat on the balcony pleased to feel as though we were back in civilization with western toilets and a shower which was strong enough to wash under.
From Crac we headed to Aleppo my favorite port of call in Syria. We toured to souqs, ten kilometres long. We squeezed along side the donkies, and were temped by the colourful carpets. we stood atop the citadel and were transfixed by the city. In the early evening I stood on the hostel's balcony and listened as all the city's mosques began their mournful and wailing call to prayer. A beautiful resonant echo across the roof tops bouncing from minaret to minaret.
Then a long 8 hour drive to Bosra. A strange town with a sad feeling and presence. people squatting in the Roman and Byzantine buildings sit Roman collumn tops, using them as garden chairs. We camped in a resturant alongside the 15000 capacity roman ampitheatre.
And now here we are back in the capital of Jordan with another boarder crossing done and another stamp in my passport. I am looking forward to Jordan to the dead sea to petra to Wadi Rum, but i am unsure as to when I will next be able to write. So all that is left to say os goodbye and I love you all so much!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
So now here i am a world away from the grey london that I last spoke of and instead sitting in a smokey internet cafe with the sound of busy streets below and wailing arabic music. What a week it has been! Bry and I arrived after a stressful Heathrow experience and a cramped flight. we were hot and tired as we que qued up for our visas.
We met up with the rest of our travelling friends on the Saturday evening, strange to think I have only known these people for a week, we are all so close having to squat at the side of the road to relieve oneself after 3 litres of water and 5 hours in the truck is a leveling experience!
It has been amazing. We started in Amman in Jordan from where on the Sunday morning we drove to Jerash a beautiful Roman city near Amman. We explored before the heat of the day really set in and then "trucked" off to the Jordan Syrian border, and drove all the way to Damascus. The border crossing went smoothly apart from some rather enthusiastic waving of a machine gun by the border guard. Once through the barriers and into Syria we were greeted by waves from all directions. Children ran out from their houses and the old men sitting in the shade respectfully acknowledged our passing.
Syria well what can I say what a wonderful time we had, what friendly people and what sights to be seen. Every building is graced with a huge portrait of the President politics and religion are visible to a degree that I have never before experienced.
We started in Damascus, camping over night on a patch of green and cultivated grass behind a garage on a main and busy road into the centre of the city. We had a day to explore the large and wondering souqs, to inhale to spices to see the gold twinkling in the spots of sunlight finding their way through holes in the roof. Sacks of saffron, rose buds, soaps, animal carcuses and camel heads sit side by side as men sit at sewing machines or weld sending sparks into the narrow streets. The buildings crowd together over hanging and providing ample shade and protectin from the sun. We sat with some old toothless men who invited us to tea outside their homes sitting in the shade sipping hot sweet liquid.
From Damascus we trucked east to Palmayra a desert oasis of the Roman period. the springs are all but dry but the town remains. We rode camels at sunrise amongst the beautifully carved collumns that rose majestically from the sand monuments to a noble civilization, tinged pink by the rising orb. Sleeping under the stars pleased to have relief from the heat which rose into the mid forties.
We waved goodbye to Palmayra and headed to the famous castle of Crac des Chevaliers where we explored the secret passage ways and then headed to our hotel which stood on the opposite side of the valley. We sat on the balcony pleased to feel as though we were back in civilization with western toilets and a shower which was strong enough to wash under.
From Crac we headed to Aleppo my favorite port of call in Syria. We toured to souqs, ten kilometres long. We squeezed along side the donkies, and were temped by the colourful carpets. we stood atop the citadel and were transfixed by the city. In the early evening I stood on the hostel's balcony and listened as all the city's mosques began their mournful and wailing call to prayer. A beautiful resonant echo across the roof tops bouncing from minaret to minaret.
Then a long 8 hour drive to Bosra. A strange town with a sad feeling and presence. people squatting in the Roman and Byzantine buildings sit Roman collumn tops, using them as garden chairs. We camped in a resturant alongside the 15000 capacity roman ampitheatre.
And now here we are back in the capital of Jordan with another boarder crossing done and another stamp in my passport. I am looking forward to Jordan to the dead sea to petra to Wadi Rum, but i am unsure as to when I will next be able to write. So all that is left to say os goodbye and I love you all so much!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thursday 17 July 2008
welcome to london land of extortion!
dear all I write to you from London. It has been a busy week. I finished my time in Berlin happily with a trip to Peacock island with aylin and her mother, some cocktails at a beach bar on top of a department store and blowing some bubbles in the streets of east berlin. After arriving at Gatwick i stayed in a small capsule hotel, it was brilliant everything could be reached from sitting on my bed. I then hopped on a train early in the morning and headed for Norfolk where I passed several happy and busy days. I caught up with my mum, my grandmother and my friends. Now I am in London staying with my kind and hospitable cousin Charlotte. My arrival to the UK has been greated with rain and cold and today I have bought myself a wooly hat to fight against the elements as I have no long trousers or shoes!
London is so expensive in comparison with Berlin this has become apparent in two ways. I am currently searching for a flat so that I can move here to begin my studies at the end of September. I will be paying as much per week as Aylin is paying for her beautiful flat per month. Also I treated myself to a hair cut today I do not want to admit to how much it cost lets just say no lunch for me today and no using the tube.
I am sorry re reading this it is markedly uninteresting and uninspiring I blame this on the fact I miss Berlin, it is raining and i am hungry. so i will sign off and hope that my next blog will be of more interest.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
p.s. am off to Jordan tomorrow!
London is so expensive in comparison with Berlin this has become apparent in two ways. I am currently searching for a flat so that I can move here to begin my studies at the end of September. I will be paying as much per week as Aylin is paying for her beautiful flat per month. Also I treated myself to a hair cut today I do not want to admit to how much it cost lets just say no lunch for me today and no using the tube.
I am sorry re reading this it is markedly uninteresting and uninspiring I blame this on the fact I miss Berlin, it is raining and i am hungry. so i will sign off and hope that my next blog will be of more interest.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
p.s. am off to Jordan tomorrow!
Thursday 10 July 2008
Orpheus, the underworld and wallace and gromit
I cannot believe that my time here is nearly over. I have had a wonderful time exploring different parts of this multi faceted city, avoiding the tourist haunts as much as possible.
Since my last entry time has passed at a seemingly vastly increased rate. Monday was spent mainly in bed and then at the local park where as soon as we sat down on our orange velvet balnket the heavens opened and we had to seek shelter under some trees as we played with the playdou that we had bought. The reason Monday was spent sleeping was to an evening of continuous dancing on the reggae ship to which we are returning this evening. After a long day on Sunday the last thing I wanted to do was to go out dancing. So we set off from the flat I felt deflated and wore what looked like a ensemble of my favourite pjamams. We boarded the boat at about middnight and then left at 5am. We danced to the incesently happy music in the green, red and yellow lights under the haze of smoke.
Tuesday was spent in the underworlds! We took a tour of the air raid shelters under the city. The tour guide's skin was pale and almost translucent he took joy in turning off the lights and speaking in empassioned tones. It was interesting for me to reconsider my thoughts on the war. Here was a place where people had died, people had cowered in the darkness listening to the explosions over head and unable to move or breathe deeply. They were just as innocent as those who across the sea cowered in the underground as bombs rained down on their city.
In the evening we went to a tiny theatre, the English theatre of Berlin, where we saw Orpheous decending by Tennesse Williams. It was a great production that kept us discussing into the night over home made hot chocolate.
Last night we once again visited B flat jazz club where we shared cocktails and wrote in the glow of a candle. We watched two young saxophonists smiling and happy take to the stage and wow us with their passion and seemingly inate ability.
Sorry to end so abrutbly but I must be off.
I send you all huge amounts of love
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Since my last entry time has passed at a seemingly vastly increased rate. Monday was spent mainly in bed and then at the local park where as soon as we sat down on our orange velvet balnket the heavens opened and we had to seek shelter under some trees as we played with the playdou that we had bought. The reason Monday was spent sleeping was to an evening of continuous dancing on the reggae ship to which we are returning this evening. After a long day on Sunday the last thing I wanted to do was to go out dancing. So we set off from the flat I felt deflated and wore what looked like a ensemble of my favourite pjamams. We boarded the boat at about middnight and then left at 5am. We danced to the incesently happy music in the green, red and yellow lights under the haze of smoke.
Tuesday was spent in the underworlds! We took a tour of the air raid shelters under the city. The tour guide's skin was pale and almost translucent he took joy in turning off the lights and speaking in empassioned tones. It was interesting for me to reconsider my thoughts on the war. Here was a place where people had died, people had cowered in the darkness listening to the explosions over head and unable to move or breathe deeply. They were just as innocent as those who across the sea cowered in the underground as bombs rained down on their city.
In the evening we went to a tiny theatre, the English theatre of Berlin, where we saw Orpheous decending by Tennesse Williams. It was a great production that kept us discussing into the night over home made hot chocolate.
Last night we once again visited B flat jazz club where we shared cocktails and wrote in the glow of a candle. We watched two young saxophonists smiling and happy take to the stage and wow us with their passion and seemingly inate ability.
Sorry to end so abrutbly but I must be off.
I send you all huge amounts of love
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sunday 6 July 2008
the white elephant and the ghost!
I am sitting on Aylin's small balcony surrounded by tomato plants sipping milky tea. We have spent the day at several of Berlin's large flea markets trying on silly hats and glasses and wondering who on earth buys used corks and old forks?! I so enjoy the colour and the vibrancy of this city. We sat for a while in a large park watching fire eaters, poi dancers and families all soaking up the atmosphere and all sharing a collective puff on the incence and weed filled air.
These last few days have been busy and not afforded much time for needed contemplation and a collecting of thoughts. We have spent many happy hours in the kitchen baking and ornately decorating dozens of cookies. Too many that we are now unsure of what to do with. We have been to art galleries, to the the club that typifies the old east and danced the night away by the light of the largest disco ball I have ever seen. I danced the twist so enthusiastically that my trousers split to a disgraceful degree that I was not fully aware until we left the club after dawn and the early morning light showed my trousers and dignity in tatters! Our night time activities have been long and interesting Berlin maintaining its intriguing character by the light of the moon and the neon strip. We went to a beautiful old theatre and caberet complex last night to see an Icelandic band play. We jumped with abandon in the front row in the sweltering heat.
Tonight we are off to a reggae party on a river boat I expect to see some colourful characters to further cement my love for this city.
Yesterday whilst shopping in the local supermarket a colourful flyer, there are flyers and stickers everywhere, caught my eye. it was for a small art collective by the name of white elephant. They too share an interest in abadoned and decaying buildings and placing contemporary art in temporary space. We decided to spend the afternoon there so headed east to a beautiful large brick ware house. Its windows all broken and birds nesting inside. Outside a man with dreadlocks sat at a plastic picnic bench under the shade of a potted palm tree and waved us inside. We were greated by a pot holed and uneven floor a small temporary bar selling plastic cups of beer and a wonderful view. The building over looks one of the lakes in the city its old rusty doors wide open and a small boat with a sign pointing to it signalling that this was the official fire escape in case of emergency! We explored the decaying structure graced with installations and interactive displays were we left our mark.
It was whilst making our mark that a man looking out of place approached us asking what to do here as we wrote small thoughts in a notepad. His name is Caspar an engineer. His reason for visiting the exhibition was his love of the building which he informed us is to be converted into apartments. It turns out that fate dealt me a strange hand by introducing me to this engineer uncomfortable with artistic endeavour, he too is soon to depart Berlin for the middle east. He is off a few days before me to learn Arabic in Syria. So we have organised to meet in Damascus. In the world you are never really alone.
Now I hope that you are all well and enjoying what you are up to
love to all my dears
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
These last few days have been busy and not afforded much time for needed contemplation and a collecting of thoughts. We have spent many happy hours in the kitchen baking and ornately decorating dozens of cookies. Too many that we are now unsure of what to do with. We have been to art galleries, to the the club that typifies the old east and danced the night away by the light of the largest disco ball I have ever seen. I danced the twist so enthusiastically that my trousers split to a disgraceful degree that I was not fully aware until we left the club after dawn and the early morning light showed my trousers and dignity in tatters! Our night time activities have been long and interesting Berlin maintaining its intriguing character by the light of the moon and the neon strip. We went to a beautiful old theatre and caberet complex last night to see an Icelandic band play. We jumped with abandon in the front row in the sweltering heat.
Tonight we are off to a reggae party on a river boat I expect to see some colourful characters to further cement my love for this city.
Yesterday whilst shopping in the local supermarket a colourful flyer, there are flyers and stickers everywhere, caught my eye. it was for a small art collective by the name of white elephant. They too share an interest in abadoned and decaying buildings and placing contemporary art in temporary space. We decided to spend the afternoon there so headed east to a beautiful large brick ware house. Its windows all broken and birds nesting inside. Outside a man with dreadlocks sat at a plastic picnic bench under the shade of a potted palm tree and waved us inside. We were greated by a pot holed and uneven floor a small temporary bar selling plastic cups of beer and a wonderful view. The building over looks one of the lakes in the city its old rusty doors wide open and a small boat with a sign pointing to it signalling that this was the official fire escape in case of emergency! We explored the decaying structure graced with installations and interactive displays were we left our mark.
It was whilst making our mark that a man looking out of place approached us asking what to do here as we wrote small thoughts in a notepad. His name is Caspar an engineer. His reason for visiting the exhibition was his love of the building which he informed us is to be converted into apartments. It turns out that fate dealt me a strange hand by introducing me to this engineer uncomfortable with artistic endeavour, he too is soon to depart Berlin for the middle east. He is off a few days before me to learn Arabic in Syria. So we have organised to meet in Damascus. In the world you are never really alone.
Now I hope that you are all well and enjoying what you are up to
love to all my dears
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thursday 3 July 2008
B flat and the shoe cupboard
It is 11.23 am and I am sitting having just finished a true German breakfast of heavy bread and ham. I am in east Berlin with the sound of cars bumping along the cobbled streets and trams in the distance.
This is my third visit to Berlin and I feel so at home here it is a city with such spirit and colour. All avaliable surfaces are covered with stickers or writing a form of communication to which all can subscribe.
My few days here have been frenetic with continued activity, setting off from Reading at 5.30am and arriving at midday in Berlin. After a lunch the afternoon was spent exploring a district of the city in the east, looking at the old GDR clothes and furniture, sitting on sofas in the street, eating a pizza whilst on the move in a tram and trying to choose earrings from the huge and colourful selection and ofcourse playing board games. we stumbled across a cafe where you buy a drink and then settle down for the day to play as many board games or puzzles as you wish. A man with big glasses and dark wirery hair selected games for us to play from his personal collection that were lovingly stacked from floor to ceiling. We were bothslightly lagging the competitive gene so I believe the game progressed at rather a slow pace.
Last night after a day moving slowly along the river on a boat tour that showed us the wealth of variation in the city from the husstle and bustle of the parliamentary area to the green expanses of the parks, we returned to Aylin's flat and cooked alot of pasta. After filling our bellies we were out again to a jazz bar to watch their 'jammin'. We sat in the hot room, its huge floor to ceiling windows showing us the people and the trams passing by. We sipped cocktails in the red lit room and were treated to wonderful lively jazz which drew a huge crowd and raised the temperature even higher.
We met some characters whilst watching the performance, Josh an American living in Berlin working as a translator, his friend Rudi a musician living in Berlin originally from Israel. We all sat communicating through the international language of the beat and the enthusiasm shown by the drummer who wore pink trousers and socks with a beautiful bright blue shirt.
You realise how small the world is when Rudi asked where I was from and we talked about Norwich as he is a fan of the football club! We have decided to meet with them on Friday as they have suggested a place which they say sums up east Berlin so we shall see.
Oh I must explain the shoe cupboard.
Aylin was disappointed at my ignorance and lack of worldliness when it came to my wonderment and delight at her shoe cupboard. It resembles a tall thin filing cabinet that holds all her shoes. This and the fact that Aylin says I was snoring in my sleep last night confirms what I believed I am just a younger version of my Mum!
And on that note I will venture out into the sun to visit some sand sculptures and a beach bar in the middle of the city!
Love to all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
This is my third visit to Berlin and I feel so at home here it is a city with such spirit and colour. All avaliable surfaces are covered with stickers or writing a form of communication to which all can subscribe.
My few days here have been frenetic with continued activity, setting off from Reading at 5.30am and arriving at midday in Berlin. After a lunch the afternoon was spent exploring a district of the city in the east, looking at the old GDR clothes and furniture, sitting on sofas in the street, eating a pizza whilst on the move in a tram and trying to choose earrings from the huge and colourful selection and ofcourse playing board games. we stumbled across a cafe where you buy a drink and then settle down for the day to play as many board games or puzzles as you wish. A man with big glasses and dark wirery hair selected games for us to play from his personal collection that were lovingly stacked from floor to ceiling. We were bothslightly lagging the competitive gene so I believe the game progressed at rather a slow pace.
Last night after a day moving slowly along the river on a boat tour that showed us the wealth of variation in the city from the husstle and bustle of the parliamentary area to the green expanses of the parks, we returned to Aylin's flat and cooked alot of pasta. After filling our bellies we were out again to a jazz bar to watch their 'jammin'. We sat in the hot room, its huge floor to ceiling windows showing us the people and the trams passing by. We sipped cocktails in the red lit room and were treated to wonderful lively jazz which drew a huge crowd and raised the temperature even higher.
We met some characters whilst watching the performance, Josh an American living in Berlin working as a translator, his friend Rudi a musician living in Berlin originally from Israel. We all sat communicating through the international language of the beat and the enthusiasm shown by the drummer who wore pink trousers and socks with a beautiful bright blue shirt.
You realise how small the world is when Rudi asked where I was from and we talked about Norwich as he is a fan of the football club! We have decided to meet with them on Friday as they have suggested a place which they say sums up east Berlin so we shall see.
Oh I must explain the shoe cupboard.
Aylin was disappointed at my ignorance and lack of worldliness when it came to my wonderment and delight at her shoe cupboard. It resembles a tall thin filing cabinet that holds all her shoes. This and the fact that Aylin says I was snoring in my sleep last night confirms what I believed I am just a younger version of my Mum!
And on that note I will venture out into the sun to visit some sand sculptures and a beach bar in the middle of the city!
Love to all
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
