smoke, heat, dirty feet and camel heads

Hello everyone, longtime no communicate. I am sorry for my lack of insites into the world of the middle east. The problem has been a constant movement and a lack of internet. the last time I was "online" was in a small town in Syria where as soon as I signed in we had a power cut and all connection to the outside world was lost.
So now here i am a world away from the grey london that I last spoke of and instead sitting in a smokey internet cafe with the sound of busy streets below and wailing arabic music. What a week it has been! Bry and I arrived after a stressful Heathrow experience and a cramped flight. we were hot and tired as we que qued up for our visas.
We met up with the rest of our travelling friends on the Saturday evening, strange to think I have only known these people for a week, we are all so close having to squat at the side of the road to relieve oneself after 3 litres of water and 5 hours in the truck is a leveling experience!
It has been amazing. We started in Amman in Jordan from where on the Sunday morning we drove to Jerash a beautiful Roman city near Amman. We explored before the heat of the day really set in and then "trucked" off to the Jordan Syrian border, and drove all the way to Damascus. The border crossing went smoothly apart from some rather enthusiastic waving of a machine gun by the border guard. Once through the barriers and into Syria we were greeted by waves from all directions. Children ran out from their houses and the old men sitting in the shade respectfully acknowledged our passing.
Syria well what can I say what a wonderful time we had, what friendly people and what sights to be seen. Every building is graced with a huge portrait of the President politics and religion are visible to a degree that I have never before experienced.
We started in Damascus, camping over night on a patch of green and cultivated grass behind a garage on a main and busy road into the centre of the city. We had a day to explore the large and wondering souqs, to inhale to spices to see the gold twinkling in the spots of sunlight finding their way through holes in the roof. Sacks of saffron, rose buds, soaps, animal carcuses and camel heads sit side by side as men sit at sewing machines or weld sending sparks into the narrow streets. The buildings crowd together over hanging and providing ample shade and protectin from the sun. We sat with some old toothless men who invited us to tea outside their homes sitting in the shade sipping hot sweet liquid.
From Damascus we trucked east to Palmayra a desert oasis of the Roman period. the springs are all but dry but the town remains. We rode camels at sunrise amongst the beautifully carved collumns that rose majestically from the sand monuments to a noble civilization, tinged pink by the rising orb. Sleeping under the stars pleased to have relief from the heat which rose into the mid forties.
We waved goodbye to Palmayra and headed to the famous castle of Crac des Chevaliers where we explored the secret passage ways and then headed to our hotel which stood on the opposite side of the valley. We sat on the balcony pleased to feel as though we were back in civilization with western toilets and a shower which was strong enough to wash under.
From Crac we headed to Aleppo my favorite port of call in Syria. We toured to souqs, ten kilometres long. We squeezed along side the donkies, and were temped by the colourful carpets. we stood atop the citadel and were transfixed by the city. In the early evening I stood on the hostel's balcony and listened as all the city's mosques began their mournful and wailing call to prayer. A beautiful resonant echo across the roof tops bouncing from minaret to minaret.
Then a long 8 hour drive to Bosra. A strange town with a sad feeling and presence. people squatting in the Roman and Byzantine buildings sit Roman collumn tops, using them as garden chairs. We camped in a resturant alongside the 15000 capacity roman ampitheatre.

And now here we are back in the capital of Jordan with another boarder crossing done and another stamp in my passport. I am looking forward to Jordan to the dead sea to petra to Wadi Rum, but i am unsure as to when I will next be able to write. So all that is left to say os goodbye and I love you all so much!

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx